Napoli
Just a disclaimer - the logistics of Napoli and its surrounding islands, towns, and excursions are many and complex. We are talking about multiple train lines, buses, ferries, hydrofoils, funiculars…each with their own tickets and schedules. This guide is meant as a jumping off point, to give you an idea of what’s there (and there is a lot!). Once you know where you want to go, there are many more informative sites you can check out that will have up-to-date information on tickets, timetables, and current logistics.
Napoli is one of my favorite cities, and one I would never say no to return to. Perhaps because I miss it, or perhaps because there is just so much to say about it, it has taken me this long to write about it. My heart aches just thinking of this beautiful, vibrant, active city. Hopefully one day I will return there, and get to know it all over again.
Napoli is a city of contradictions. It is a city of highs and lows: of hills that reach into the sky and worlds hidden underground waiting for you to discover. It is a city that for centuries has inspired so many who walked its streets.
In Piazza del Plebiscito, with the Palazzo Reale in the background
There are many places to begin in Napoli. So we’ll start with what is most important: the pizza.
Le Pizze
It would be quite a sin to stay in Napoli and not have pizza. I have tried many pizze in Napoli and many pizze elsewhere in Italy and I have to tell you here it is just a different experience. Literally. The pizza you find in Napoli, pizza napoletana, is actually a unique dish. It is even considered protected cultural heritage.
When you go out for pizza in Italy, everyone typically orders their own individual pizza. If it seems like too much, it probably won’t be. The dough is very light, and don’t feel bad if you leave some crust behind (if you really must). There are many, many pizzerie in Napoli. If you want to visit one of the famous ones, it will probably be delicious, but trust me, you will have to wait for it. And though you won’t have to rush, you will be expected to leave as soon as you are finished. For me, I would prefer not to wait, but if you decide to, there is probably a bar nearby serving Aperol spritzes-to-go that will ease the pain while you wait for your number or name to be called. Don’t think that only the handful of pizzerie that are well-known abroad are the only places you should visit though. I think you’d have to try pretty hard to have a bad meal in Napoli, so if a place is filled with locals, it’s probably a safe bet even if you’ve never heard of it before.
To not overwhelm you, here would be my top choices:
The Famous One - L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele
Piazza Margherita from Da Michele
Yes, this is the one from the movies! But it is so much more than that. A family business since 1870, they know what they are doing. As I said, I have had a lot of pizza, and honestly from the moment I saw this one I knew it would be one of the best. I thought I was going at a slow time, but I still waited for an hour outside. However, as soon as I entered the staff was very friendly and attentive. They only offer a few options to choose from such as marinara, Margherita, or a half-and-half, a “marita.” As a result, it is only a few minutes from sitting down to having a hot, freshly made pizza in front of you. I was by myself and sat near a staff station, so I was able to strike up a rapport with one of the staff members, making it a lovely experience to remember. Definitely one of the best pizza I have had in my life.
The Local One - Pizzeria Al 22
Pizza with porcini mushrooms from al 22
“Al Ventidue” (how you say “twenty-two” in Italian) is a little place in Via Pignasecca, a local market street where you can find everything from tripe to pillowcases. Of all the pizza I have tried, al 22 is my go-to, all-time favorite. It is well-known by locals but not over-hyped so shhhh…keep this our little secret! They have an extensive menu of creative pizze as well as the classics, and they’ve never let me down. This was the very first pizzeria I ever tried my first night in Napoli so it will always have a special place in my heart.
For Pizza Fritta - Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo
Pizza fritta is an absolute must when in Napoli. Never have I ever had such an experience, fried dough with mozzarella cheese melting into the fresh tomato sauce. It is truly an incredible culinary experience that you should not miss when in Napoli. From the famous Sorbillo pizza dynasty, there are a few locations. I always went to the hole in the wall at the end of Via Toledo on the way to Piazza del Plebiscito. There are a few standing-height tables to eat at.
For Sfizi - Pizzeria Giuliano
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo
Pizzeria Giuliano is one of my other favorite local pizza places. But I more often pop in for their sfizi, or fried snacks to-go. Located along Via Monteoliveto on the way to Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, Pizzeria Giuliano is in the beating heart of Napoli. Here they make my favorite crocchè - a fried treat of mashed potato stuffed with mozzarella cheese. They have many other options for a quick bite on the go that will definitely leave you satisfied and ready to take on your next adventure in Napoli.
“Pizza Street” - Via Tribunali
If you prefer to wander serendipitously to find a pizzeria, it wouldn’t hurt to take a turn down Via Tribunali. Apart from being one of the main tourist walkways in Napoli, with shops, small eateries and bars along the way, it is also affectionately known as “Pizza Street.” Here you will find some fabulous, longstanding institutions of pizza napoletana, such as Sorbillo, Donna Sofia, and Di Matteo.
On a brief note about pizza in the culinary tradition of Italy, I recently saw an article in which Gino Sorbillo, one of the most well-known names in pizza napoletana across the world, stating that pizza is a food of the people and should be priced as so, which is what I learned after spending a lot of time in Napoli. After my experiences there, having the most delicious pizza cooked in wood-fire ovens before my eyes, I cringe paying more than 4 euro for a sub-par margherita pizza anywhere else. At its heart, pizza is a food for the people, and should be priced as such. After leaving Napoli, you will have to remember that there is pizza, and then there is pizza napoletana. It is its own unique experience that cannot be compared to anywhere else.
More Culinary Adventures
“Pasta e patate” from Trattoria da Nennella
If after having sampled a pizza napoletana or two, you would like to try some other traditional Neapolitan food, I recommend heading to Trattoria da Nennella. I have just learned that this staple of Neapolitan cuisine has left their historic seat nestled on the outskirts of the Quartieri Spagnoli to a prominent location in Piazza Carita. They have not gone far, just crossing Via Toledo, and it seems that not much has changed. Trattoria da Nennella is always packed, with locals and tourists alike coming for the quick service, delicious meal, and lively entertainment. Not only will a singer and his accordion undoubtedly enter the dining room at some point, leading everyone in the room in lively traditional songs, but the staff as well like to engage with the customers. Prepare yourself that that customer may be you. It is more than a meal, - da Nennella is an experience. They have a well-practiced formula - you will find a simple paper menu with first and second course offerings, their signature being pasta e patate con provola e pancetta (pasta with provolone cheese, potatoes and bacon). Among the other options is also a vegetarian choice of pasta al pomodoro fresco e basilico (pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil). For the second course, I always opt for a ball of fresh mozzarella. Need I say more?
Next, a restaurant that became well known for its ragù napoletano is Tandem. In just a little over a decade they have expanded both their locations and their menu, as well as certainly the circle of locals and visitors alike who dine here. The next time I visit Napoli I hope to stop by; they offer several of their signature pasta dishes in vegetarian- and vegan-friendly renditions as well.
Gelaterie and other Dolci
A scoop of Mennella Crunch with panna from Il Gelato Mennella
In the past, Napoli was the only place where I had seen chain gelaterie, with multiple locations around Napoli, but only found in Napoli itself. While there are certainly chains across Italy with locations in multiple cities, the gelaterie napoletane are certainly something special to check out while you are in town.
My first and favorite is always Il Gelato Mennella. It’s probably a sentimental connection most of all, but honestly this is the good stuff. Stracciatella (chocolate chip) is a good go-to as well as their signature flavor, Mennella crunch.
Two other chains that you will see are Casa Infante and Fantasia. Both of them are delicious as well!
Napoli has some of the most distinctive desserts in Italy. Some are local to Napoli, and some are just made really, really well here so that they have become emblematic of the city. These include rum-soaked babà, sticky-sweet balls of struffoli, custard-fillled zeppole with an amarena cherry on top, and the classic sfogliatelle. It was at the Antico Forno delle Sfogliatelle Calde Fratelli Attanasio that I learned the sfogliatelle are actually prepared two ways: frolla, or made with smooth shortcrust pastry, or riccia, shaped like a seashell and made with layers of puff pastry that give it a signature, flakey, and messy crunch.
Typical Neopolitan buildings
Just a note: when you are finished with your dinner in Italy, your waiter may ask you if you care for an espresso or a digestivo. Popular choices include amaro or bright yellow limoncello, which may have even been produced nearby.
If you want to take in a drink, check out the cool Liberia Berisio, near Piazza Dante, a bookshop/bar that has nice cocktails and hip vibes.
Getting Around
The metro system and stations
The spectacular Stazione Toledo
Napoli’s metro system is very impressive. Line 1 is the main city center/tourist destination line that runs from Stazione Garibaldi (which is adjacent to the Stazione Centrale), through to the center of the city (stations like Toledo and Dante), and up through Vomero (Stazione Vanvitelli). Apart from its convenience, many of the metro stations are home to unique artwork, but none is more well known than Stazione Toledo. Riding the escalator up or down, one is fascinated by the myriad shades of blue that form an enchanting mosaic. One could imagine they are under the sea, or in a celestial paradise. Either way, make sure to hold onto the handrail. While you may feel like you are floating, you definitely don’t want to fall.
The funiculars
Taking the funicular from Piazza Fuga
As I mentioned, Napoli is a city of hills. You may not realize looking on a map that neighborhoods that seem right next to each other, are actually on top of one another. In addition to using the metro system, another element of public transportation is the funicolare, or cable cars. You don’t see them in the skyline, as they are built into the hills themselves. There are several funicular routes in Napoli. For example, you may take the funicolare Centrale from Piazza Duca d’Aosta near Via Toledo to the Vomero neighborhood (stazione Piazza Fuga), home to the Castel Sant’Elmo and a breathtaking view of Napoli and Vesuvio in the background.
The bus, but actually let’s talk about the beach
To be honest, I haven’t taken the bus very much in Napoli. One place that I did take the bus is to go out to the Posillipo neighborhood. It is home to some of Napoli’s famous beaches, which still have the impression of being local secrets. Places like Gaiola and Marechiaro. One way that you may not think of exploring these hideaways is by kayak, but that is exactly the way one business has emerged to share these beautiful places with locals and visitors alike. You can look up Kayak Napoli for more information.
And for a very unique experience, you can look into the Parco Sommerso di Baia, a submerged archeological site. In my research I have seen various companies that offer excursions into what is now a protected marine area, from glass-bottom boats to scuba diving. Once upon a time I did a small snorkeling excursion.
The Castles
Can you see “Spaccanapoli?” As seen from Castel Sant’Elmo
Napoli has several castles which you can visit, and let’s begin with my favorite: Castel Sant’Elmo. Located high on the hill in Vomero, on a clear day you will have a spectacular view of Vesuvio, the Gulf of Napoli, and the city itself. Looking down on the city center, you will see a definitive line going through the city, a street that is distinctively wider than the other around it, one that literally “cuts” the city. This is Spaccanapoli, the nickname of a long street that was once one of the major roads dividing the ancient city - what an incredible example of history!
After visiting the castle, if it is sunset I would consider heading across the street to Renzo e Lucia, a restaurant whose terrace gives you the same panoramic view. It seems like it may be a fancy place for dinner, but I had a very reasonable aperitivo there, marveling at the Neapolitan sky and the grandeur of it all.
Napoli at night, view from outside the entrance to Castel Sant’Elmo
Then we can talk about the Castel dell’Ovo - the castle of the egg? Yes, this impressive fortress is built on an island just off the shoreline of Napoli; there is a little walkway that leads you there. Legend has it that in the castle, the poet Virgil placed a magical egg that would protect the castle, as long as it remained intact. Yes, Virgil. Visiting the Castel dell’Ovo is like taking a step back through time: you can walk the ramparts of this seaside fortress, feel the breeze and the magnitude of the centuries of history that have passed in the same place you are standing now. That is what it is like when visiting Napoli. It is not just now that you are experiencing, but the layers and layers of history and stories that have made up this city.
Il Castel dell’Ovo
The Museums
Rainy day in the forecast? No worries! Napoli has amazing museums that - if you’re interested in that sort of thing - you should factor into your plans either way!
The first mention here has to be MANN - the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli - the archeological museum. Because hello: Vesuvio! This museum is full of artifacts from Pompei, Ercolano, and Stabia, another important site from the 79 AD eruption. Think about that for a second - 79 AD! Literally centuries ago. It gives me chills.
Exterior of MANN - Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli
Anything you can imagine is here: statues, mosaics, frescos. And its not just things that were excavated from the nearby sites. There is a section dedicated to Ancient Egypt and temporary exhibitions as well. In my opinion, visiting the museum is a complementary experience to visiting the archeological sites themselves. At the sites, you walk through the ancient cities, you see the buildings and can enter into some. And while there are certainly mosaics and frescos remaining, many of the artworks are preserved in the museum. You can take your time and admire them up close. And inside, you don’t have to worry about the weather.
Another favorite museum of mine is Museo Madre, a contemporary art museum which always has fascinating exhibits. There is also the Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte. This sprawling property on the Capodimonte hill is also home to a wide-ranging museum that features royal apartments, Roman scuplture, and a vast collection from the Renaissance. And if you are a fan of Gilmore Girls, like me, you will enjoy coming across the work Antea, by Parmigianino, referenced in the episode “The Festival of Living Art.” Another museum, PAN, the Palazzo delle Arti di Napoli, is currently closed for renovations but features unique modern art exhibitions.
Churches
One thing that always amazes me in Italy, no matter where I am, is how many churches there are. Each one has a unique style, and is home to uncountable works of art that are usually hundreds of years old. And many times (not including the very touristic ones), we can just walk in and see them. And spend time in them contemplating or praying. It is just incredible to me. Napoli, of course, has so many. I will just mention a few.
The first is more than a church, but also a monastic complex, the Chiostro e Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara, right in the centro storico. There is an entrance fee, but there are many things to see here and it is lovely to stroll through the garden and the corridors on a sunny day.
Walking through the gardens of the Chiostro e Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara
Just around the corner, is the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo and its spectacular exterior. It appears to be a fortification rather then a church. The interior, however, is fantastically Baroque. I believe I was able to just walk in.
Another church, actually, cathedral, that I was able to just walk into was the Duomo di Napoli. You can even have a free tour in English or Italian (check their official website for more info). This church is very important because it houses the relics of San Gennaro, the patron saint of the city. You can visit the crypt underneath the alter. The miracle of San Gennaro is observed three times a year, where his dried blood liquifies, signaling good fortune for the city.
Lastly, I will mention that I spent a morning exploring another monastic complex, the Complesso Monumentale di Santa Maria La Nova, home also to the ARCA, Museo d’Arte Religiosa Contemporanea, the Museum of Contemporary Religious Art. There is an entrance fee.
Catacombs
Frescos inside the Catacombe di San Gennaro
Napoli, like any ancient city, is built on layers. Luckily, we are still able to walk back in time, and visit these places of the past. There is no shortage of sites, but since you may be short on time, I will tell you about my favorite. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to the Catacombe di San Gennaro, the aforementioned patron saint of Naples. We had an excellent guide, and it was amazing to see how this site has been so well preserved! There are frescos in the catacombs that are almost 2,000 years old! It’s incredible.
Other Memorable Sites
Walking through the Centro Storico
One place that you can’t miss as you stroll through the Centro Storico of Napoli is to walk through Via San Gregorio Armeno. This street is home to the artisans who create handmade presepe, or nativity scenes, that are traditionally found in homes during the Christmas season. While you can find the classic trio of Mary, Joseph, and the baby Jesus, you will also find more than the Three Wise Men and the animals. Here, the craftsmen are known for the creativity. You will find characters from real life and popular culture. However, my favorite take are the scenes from daily life, perhaps from a few decades ago, such as women chasing chickens in the garden, or a pizziaolo preparing pizze for the evening.
I will mention that while you are shopping for souvenirs, you will find several examples of the corno, a figure that resembles a chili pepper or horn. This is well-known as being a protection against the evil eye, or a form of good luck according to your beliefs. However, it may not be as well known that for the superstition to take effect, the corno must be given as a gift. No worries if you are alone. The shopkeepers are well-aware of this. When I was by myself, I set aside the corno for myself while I made my purchase of my gifts for others. I asked another shopper if I could give them the money to purchase it for me (it was probably only a few euro!). Of course, they agreed. With my luck intact, I continued on my way.
A larger, more open space than the alleys of the historical center is the Piazza del Plebiscito. This circular square is floored with rock from Vesuvio. On one side of the square you will find a church, with its fantastic colonnade, and on the other side you have the Palazzo Reale di Napoli, the Royal Palace.
Piazza del Plebiscito
If you are looking to do some shopping, or just wish to take a nice passaggiata (a nice walk), there are two main streets. First, in Vomero, you can walk down the tree-lined Via Alessandro Scarlatti. This is a very nice area, with lots of families who will be out for a stroll or to do some shopping at the mid-to-higher end clothing stores. There are several nice restaurants, and you can also walk through the Villa Floridiana, where you can be immersed in nature and have a spectacular view of Napoli and the sea. For the high-high end shopping, head to the Chiaia neighborhood.
The second long street I will mention is Via Toledo, which basically stretches from the Piazza del Plebiscito to the Dante metro station. Here you will find popular clothing stores and some street food favorites as well. Pass through the Galleria Umberto I to see a typical galleria, covered shopping mall.
Excursions outside of Napoli
The archeological sites
Napoli is blessed to not only be a city full of culture, but to be surrounded by many, many incredible sights and places to visit. So much so, that I think many tourists focus on those excursions rather than on all Napoli has to offer, and I really do feel that is a loss - for them. If you are planning a trip to the Napoli area, I HIGHLY recommend that you not skip over Napoli. It is very easy to base yourself here instead, while still taking a day trip or two to visit an island or an archeological site. But trust me, the hidden gem is the one right in front you, Napoli herself.
As I said, by making the home base of your trip Napoli, you are really spoiled for choice when it comes to activities both in the city and day trips and excursions outside.
Walking through Pompei
Probably, your first thought will go to the archeological ruins of Pompei, the city preserved under the ash of the destruction from the eruption of Vesuvio in 79 AD. Pompei is the most well-known site, however, there is another site at Ercolano (Herculaneum). I have visited both of these sites, and both of them are extremely powerful and profound to visit, especially with Vesuvio still standing tall over them today. Each have their own draws for different travelers, so I couldn’t recommend one over the other, but check into what each offers and how it aligns with your travel needs.
Flying over Napoli at night, with Vesuvio clearly delineated
Both Pompei and Ercolano are large archeological sites, and you will be spending many hours walking, potentially in the hot sun with very little shade. Bring lots of water, snacks, and something to shield you from the sun. They are both easily reached from Napoli on the Circumvesuviana train, literally: “the train that circumnavigates around Vesuvio.” You are heading to the “scavi,” the excavations. Be sure to look for Pompei Scavi or Ercolano Scavi, not to be confused with the modern cities. From both Pompei and Ercolano, you should also be able to find a bus that will take you to the entrance of the Mount Vesuvio park, where you could then attempt to walk up the volcano itself. This is a national park with staff and trails; look up info beforehand especially as you may need to purchase entry tickets ahead of time.
The islands and the coast
Here is what I am talking about when I say that too many people skip over Napoli to see the surrounding sites. While these sites are beautiful, and deserving of their reputation, you may find them a bit overcrowded in the high season. And, the more comfort you want to have, the more it will cost.
Some of these options can be done as day trips from Napoli (ex. Procida, Sentiero degli Dei), others are better suited for a long weekend in order to make the most of what may be a longer and logistically challenging commute (such as buses to and around the Amalfi coast) or enjoy more of what there is to offer (for example, I spent a long weekend on Ischia). However, keep in mind that I did visit many of these places as day trips or while on a budget, so it definitely can be done. I’m not up to date on the specific logistics, but here are some of the many attractions around Napoli to give you some ideas.
First, the islands. Capri is the most well-known for many, and also has the reputation to be the most elegant (read, expensive.) Ischia is the largest, and the only one I have visited so far. There is a lot to explore. I loved visiting the outdoor thermal baths; the island is technically a volcano! Procida, I still haven’t gone but I wish I had. I’ve heard it makes a good day trip to walk around this more local and colorful island.
Positano coming into view while hiking the Sentiero degli Dei
If instead you wish to head to the coast, here you also don’t want for options. If you are feeling adventurous, you can hike the Sentiero degli Dei (the path of the gods). Looking back at my photos, I can’t believe that I managed to do it. But if I can do it, then you can too :) The photos are truly spectacular, and we ended the day on the beach in Positano.
Sorrento would be a nice place to spend a few days. It is a charming city where you can also spend the day at the beach, renting a sunbed at a stabilimento balneare (beach club), that you can get to from taking a elevator from the Villa Comunale of Sorrento literally down the side of a cliff to the beach clubs that are built on the water below.
And finally, there is the Amalfi Coast, a series of villages built spectacularly into the hills the line the coast of the Golf of Salerno. Admittedly, this is the region I am least familiar with, but there are several bloggers who specialize in it and can provide better information for planning a trip there.
When planning your trip, I definitely recommend that you familiarize yourself with the geography so as to orient yourself. Decide where to make your ‘home base’ (or bases) for the trip from where you can easily explore nearby places, and have a nice place to relax.
Napoli still-to-do
Piazza dei Martiri
You may be wondering, is there anything that you still want to do that you haven’t done? Yes, yes, and yes! I have mentioned some of them already, but also - to visit the Lapis Museum, an underground museum of water located underneath a church in the centro storico. How amazing would it be to visit the Teatro San Carlo, maybe to see a ballet? I would like to hike Vesuvio, stroll around Procida, take my family to eat at my favorite restaurants. I would like to spend days just wandering around, enjoying the atmosphere, the accent, the energy of this place. Napoli is a place to just be.
General Information
Is this guide complete? Not at all. But it was becoming quite long, no? So I decided to focus on the most important places to me, in my opinion. I know there are several things that some would consider ESSENTIAL Napoli activities, but I haven’t experienced them. This is the Napoli guide I would give (and have given) to friends. Part of the reason I started the blog in the first place was just that: to collect my experiences and recommendations because it was hard to remember everything time after time. So if I am missing something, leave a comment and let me and the other readers know. Maybe I can try to visit next time :)
One thing that truly I would not have mentioned if I didn’t witness it myself. Just days after I myself was pickpocketed in Barcelona, I witnessed the aftermath of a pickpocket incident at the Central Station while waiting for a bus. Obviously this is a global phenomenon, but I wanted to take the opportunity to remind you - no matter where you are traveling - to be as organized as possible. Be aware of your surroundings. Make copies of important documents, know where your hotel is. Use your street smarts. Leave your nice jewelry at home, wear a fanny pack under your jacket: nothing is too cautious when it comes to keeping you and your things safe.
In a bar, watching Napoli play
My last tip is one of my favorite things to do in Napoli. If the Napoli calcio (football) team is playing, head into any bar, grab a drink and a seat, and watch the partita among local fans.
Napoli is one of my favorite cities in the world; thank you for reminiscing with me. And if you are traveling there soon - ENJOY!
Note: The header image shows Vesuvio as seen from the entrance to the Castel dell’Ovo.
