One morning in Nuremberg

Once upon a time, a few years ago, travel fate conspired for me to have the opportunity to visit Nuremberg (Nürnberg), Germany. It would be a quick trip, really just a layover that allowed me the chance to visit a beautiful, medieval city that I may otherwise not have had the chance to visit. I really had no idea of what to expect.

Entering the old city behind the medieval walls

In reality, I was actually in a tough situation. I was trying to fly between Antalya and Palermo. The problem is, there were no direct flights. But there was a flight from Antalya to Nuremberg in the evening, and a flight from Nuremberg to Palermo the following afternoon. Some intrepid travelers may have thought to just spend the night in the airport, but I saw this as a challenge, and luckily, I found a relatively easy way to make some lemons into lemonade.

It is incredibly fortunate for travelers in my situation that Nuremberg Airport is graced with an airport hotel directly across the street. You read that correctly. Here, there’s no frantically looking up airport shuttles that usually only run during certain hours. You literally just walk out the door and across the street. It could not be simpler.

The hotel is called Mövenpick Nuremberg Aiport. I found it to be extremely comfortable with all the amenities one would expect. My flight was delayed, meaning I arrived late at night. I checked-in, had a nice shower, and laid out my clothes for the next day. To pull off my morning in Nuremberg, I would have to be prepared and committed.

The charming historic center of Nuremberg

What made it possible for me to be able to actually visit the historic center of this city was the fact that also just outside the airport and the hotel is a metro station, Nürnberg Flughafen. Yes, really! How incredible is that. I searched how to buy a metro ticket and mapped out my route. It would take about 23 minutes from the hotel to city center and twelve minutes back (from different stations). Of course, I made sure to give myself plenty of time, just in case. Retracing my steps, I believe my journey into the city was done by taking metro line U2 from Nürnberg Flughafen to Plärrer station.

There are actually several metro stations that surround the historic city, that is literally walled-off and very majestic. However, they lie along different metro lines, so I chose stations that meant I would not have to change trains. I chose to start from Plärrer station, enter and make my way through the old city, and then made my way to the Rathenauplatz station (again along the U2 line) for the journey back to the hotel. My walk to Rathenauplatz station found me walking through a kind-of suburban area of the modern city, which was cool to see as well.

I wanted to note, to always check the current directions, as routes/times may have changed. I also made note that I noticed metro lines here sometimes diverge, so a metro line may follow the same route for certain stations, and then sometimes follows certain stations to one end of the line, and sometimes others, to a different end of the line. Also, multiple train lines may pass on the same platform. So always look carefully as to which train is arriving, and which is the last station listed, as it may determine which stations it stops at.

I would not have much time to explore. My notes tell me that I wanted to be back at the hotel around 10:30! That would give me just enough time to go up to my room, have a little rest, and then head downstairs to check out, walk across the street, and start my journey home.

These buildings seem straight out of a fairy tale

I can tell you I definitely arrived before most of the historic city’s attractions began opening, before 9am, but it was still interesting. This was my first time in Germany, and seeing how one literally crossed a bridge from the modern city into the medieval one was fascinating. It was quiet, and a beautiful sunny morning. Shopkeepers were just arriving, cafés setting up their tables outside. It seemed out of a fairy tale, which makes sense, as so much of “fairy tale” imagery has German origins. I strolled around, generally making my way from one end of the historic center to the other.

I already had in mind some of the sites I wanted to see. I found the architecture amazing, and also marveled at how it has been adapted over time. Contemporary shops and restaurants are housed in centuries-old buildings. And somehow, it all goes together, the modern and the historic vibes melding harmoniously.

The exterior of Lorenzkirche

I was blown away by this scenery, which is so particular and unlike anything I had experienced before. There are several significant sites, including churches like Lorenzkirche (St. Lorenz). I only saw this from the outside, but it was striking in its Gothic style. I then made my way toward the Pegnitz River, which divides the historical center into north and south. There is even a small island in the middle of the river, where I stopped to have breakfast. I tried a quark plunder, a cheese pastry, at Di Simo, a quaint café. With the quiet river flowing below, and trees and homes in view, you would think you were in the countryside instead of in the very center of one of Germany’s largest cities (13th largest, as last I checked).

Across the river Pegnitz

Crossing the river, I made my way to one of the other significant churches, and one whose exterior resembles Lorenzkirche, Sebalduskirche (St. Sebaldus). Both of these churches had previously been Roman Catholic churches, before becoming Lutheran as a result of the Protestant Reformation. Both churches also features two prominent towers reaching into the sky. Sebalduskirche is vast inside, with minimal decoration. There are statues, yes, and stained glass, and even frescos, but what overwhelms you is the open space around you and above you. I imagine, that is the point of the design.

It was almost time for me to head back, but I couldn’t leave Nürnberg without visiting its most impressive medieval fortifications, the Nuremberg Castle. Built on top of a hill, it is a steep climb, but worth it. It felt like being in a little village, walking through quiet streets and under stone arches. You also have a view over the old city, where you can see rooftops and the church spires of Lorenzkirche and Sebalduskirche.

Walking up to the top of Nuremberg Castle

As I mentioned, I then had a little stroll through a modern neighborhood before taking the metro back to the hotel. My excursion lasted no more than three hours, but what an experience it was. I am so proud of myself for making the most of the opportunity I was given. It would have been very easy for me to sleep in after a long travel day, in those oh-so-cozy and plush hotel beds. But instead, I got up early, made sure my bags were packed and ready to go for when I returned, and headed out into the unknown. And now, it’s no so unknown any more.

Note: The header image shows the view of Nuremberg from Nuremberg Castle.